The mine of Locmaria-Berrien, or the best kind of explorations

Two narrow canals, one fed by the lake in Huelgoat, one by the rivière d’Argent, go throughthe woods and around the valley, à flanc de colline, mid-slope. The upper canal is full of trouts. It is home to mallards and wagtails, and crosses enchanting beech woods. The green leaves, still tender at the end ofContinue reading “The mine of Locmaria-Berrien, or the best kind of explorations”

Huelgoat and Bretons d’ailleurs

Eventually I tired of the wind along the coast. I was near Roscoff,and it was blowing from dawn to dusk, kicking up the dust and driving off trains of thoughts. I headed both inland and inwards, to Huelgoat. Huelgoat, “the upper wood” in Breton, is pronounced “U-èl-go-a-t”. It is a quaint village in the centerContinue reading “Huelgoat and Bretons d’ailleurs”

Pointe Saint Mathieu

The fabulously named Côte des Légendes, Coast of Legends, sits on the North-West tip of Brittany. From Pointe Saint-Mathieu to Roscoff, sea and land wrestle with each other and create an incredible mosaic of landscapes. The Brittany monster (see here) has been in a lot of fights; its ancient nose is full of scars, wounds,Continue reading “Pointe Saint Mathieu”

In a peninsula far far away… (2/4)

But the Crozon peninsula is not cut off from the rest of the world. Sadly, and surprisingly perhaps, war has imprinted its mark widely on it, and still holds it in its grip. You have to go to Pointe des Espagnols, its northern tip, to understand why. As you emerge from the walls and bushes,Continue reading “In a peninsula far far away… (2/4)”