Cap Fréhel and the coast of Emerald

La côte d’Emeraude, the “coast of Emerald”, is between Cap Fréhel and Saint Malo, on the North-Eastern coast of Brittany. This part of Brittany is less typical, less of a picture-perfect postcard than many of the places I have visited so far. The local stone is pink sandstone, not granite. The local dialect was Gallo,Continue reading “Cap Fréhel and the coast of Emerald”

Tréguier – a tale of two cities

Tréguier, a pretty ville de caractère, or city of character, is the capital of the Trégor, in the west of the Côtes d’Armor (22). It is famous for its beautiful cathedral, and its 15th and 16th colombages houses, with picturesque wooden beams. Thanks to its river port with easy access to the Channel, the cityContinue reading “Tréguier – a tale of two cities”

Trégastel – Vallée des Traouïero

The coast of pink granite is truly a lovely landscape. Big pink granite, rounded off by the elements, line the coast of Trebeurdun, Trégastel and Perros-Guirrec. They look like voluptuous hippos, hauled up on the beach, sun-burnt, sleepy. Saint Mamert, Pancrace and Boniface are called the “Saints de Glace” “Icy Saints”, as between the 11thContinue reading “Trégastel – Vallée des Traouïero”

The mine of Locmaria-Berrien, or the best kind of explorations

Two narrow canals, one fed by the lake in Huelgoat, one by the rivière d’Argent, go throughthe woods and around the valley, à flanc de colline, mid-slope. The upper canal is full of trouts. It is home to mallards and wagtails, and crosses enchanting beech woods. The green leaves, still tender at the end ofContinue reading “The mine of Locmaria-Berrien, or the best kind of explorations”

Huelgoat and Bretons d’ailleurs

Eventually I tired of the wind along the coast. I was near Roscoff,and it was blowing from dawn to dusk, kicking up the dust and driving off trains of thoughts. I headed both inland and inwards, to Huelgoat. Huelgoat, “the upper wood” in Breton, is pronounced “U-èl-go-a-t”. It is a quaint village in the centerContinue reading “Huelgoat and Bretons d’ailleurs”

The coast of South Finistère (5/6)

Further along the coast, you hit the baie d’Audierne. The landscape is huge in all directions. The sky, the sea, the land feel infinite. The sand dune and the beach stretch almost to the horizon. During the day, the sun dazzles and burns, creates a haze. The light clouds move at speed. Only at nightContinue reading “The coast of South Finistère (5/6)”